It's been a while since I've written an article on actual men's grooming and, as always, whenever a singular topic presents its self I get the urge to write about it. Lately I have seen a lot of talk about the Barber/Stylist crossover movement and with that comes a responsibility to know how to care for all hair types.
So what happens when your client's hair goes grey/silver/white with a dash of yellow? It takes away from your perfect haircut and, even worse, it makes the hair look unhealthy. How many of your men or women in your chair have asked for help but you couldn't really figure it out? It's short and simple: haircare and the toxins they are around every day.
I live in Manhattan, New York City and half of my clients live here as well or in the surrounding areas. Everyone knows the air here isn't exactly quality and the same goes for Los Angeles, too. They don't call it 'smokers yellow' for no reason. Oh, it's not yellow? It's frizz? That's normal too.
Here's a few tips for addressing and putting the brilliance back in your client's hair.
1. Yellow Hair: Yuck!
When hair loses pigment it also becomes porous and can suck in every toxin that it comes into contact with. A really simple solution that I tell my clients to do is use a violet shampoo. The purple/blue color neutralizes the yellow and gives that beautiful silver grey color back. Men hate going to great lengths to take care of their hair and most women don't want to take additional time out of their day either. This may not be the end-all solution for dull or yellow color but I have seen clients try it and love it.
2. Frizz Control
Most men just throw paste or gel in their hair and hope the little stray hairs don't escape from the perfect shape they created in the morning. There are two reasons for this and one is dehydration which most people know about. A lot of people use 2-in-1 shampoo/conditioners which doesn't effectively hydrate the hair, always use a separate conditioner and you will feel the difference.
Second reason for frizz is using the thinning/texturizing shears on top of the head. I'm not saying my way is right and yours is wrong: if it works for you then continue on. But I almost never use texturizing shears on top of the head, it's my personal prerogative as a Barber. I find techniques such as point-cutting or slicing work more effectively with this hair type rather than razors or texturizing shears.
3. Long Hair Versus Short
This is a call that only your client can make but I will say that shorter hair tends to look better on grey, silver or white. Of course this doesn't apply to everyone but I find that length almost never does any justice for men with a lack of pigment. I'm not saying to buzz all of it but to keep it in check and not let it get too out of control.
Hope this helps when assessing your clients hair and what they want compared to what they currently have! Leave a comment below if you have any additional tips, tricks or products you think are worth using.